Surf
Surfing is my new vice. Much as the mountains took hold of me when I was younger, the ocean has since captivated my interest and held it for going on 6 years now. Surfing is what got me through the miserable 14 hour days working for someone else and what made me thankful every time I paddled out for where I lived and what I had. Surfing is an outlet, a way to connect, a way to center, a way to put things into perspective and a way to push yourself. You can surf to relax and you can surf to drive adrenaline deep into your veins. A short trip to black beach and the heaviest wave in southern California on an 8 foot day will quickly remind you of how human you truly are and how amazing it feel to harness and control nature even if only for a split second. To those who do not surf or do not even ski for that matter I say your are depriving yourself of all that is good in life. Ok, ok, maybe a bit dramatic, but you could for sure be soaking up some rays in the powder and waves and that sure beats the hell out of fluorescent lights.
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Enjoy…

















